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Mexico City Travel

The beautifully landscaped PASEO DE LA REFORMA, the city's main thoroughfare, built in the mid-1800's by Emperor Maximillian, cuts from CHAPULTEPEC PARK, an Aztec forest reserve that somehow has survived into the 21st century, to the colonial CENTRO HISTÓRICO. It is lined with old mansions, museums, hotels and office high-rises. The ANTHROPOLOGICAL MUSEUM (5786-9002) provides an intelligent overview of Mexico's various ethnic groups and delights visitors with its huge Mayan and Aztec statuary.

The ZÓCALO, or central square, is the city's heart, lined with Spanish colonial structures built over Aztec ruins. Visit the excavations of the Aztec TEMPLO MAYOR, all that is left of this once-fabled El Dorado. Nearby, hundreds of dancers re-enact ancient rituals with incense, drums and chants.

The METROPOLITAN CATHEDRAL, sinking and earthquake-weary, dominates the square. Across the plaza, the PALACIO DE GOBIERNO houses Diego Rivera's murals, but capitalists should prepare themselves for artistic insults. His wife Frida Kahlo's home, the CASA AZUL (5554-5999), in the tranquil Coyoacán neighborhood, is best known for her body cast and her collection of religious knickknacks.

Motel Reservations December 22, 2004 02:17 PM