Downtown Los Angeles, the city's historic business core, is experiencing strong revitalization after a generation of being passed over and nearly forgotten. The best example of this is the metaphorically — and literally — shiny new Walt Disney Concert Hall, an extravaganza of curved and billowing steel designed by Frank Gehry, a modern landmark that's caught the attention of the international architectural community and breathed new life into L.A.'s cultural reputation.

The storied streets of Hollywood have gotten a recent face lift as well, as vintage Golden Age landmarks are reinvented for a new millennium. The Hollywood and Highland entertainment complex, for example, is flanked by larger-than-life stone elephants reminiscent of a Cecil de Mille film epic; they're a fitting tribute the industry that brought Los Angeles from its dusty past as Spanish trading post and frontier farm town into its 20th-century-and-beyond prominence.

The city's near-perfect weather is a cliche that's nearly always true (especially on January 1, when L.A.'s sunny skies are broadcast to the nation from Pasadena's Rose Parade), and makes it possible to enjoy the outdoors any time of year, whether you're cruising for celebrities, rollerblading on the beach or taking in one of the major family attractions in Southern California.

Los Angeles also boasts a multi-ethnic flavor that provides endless opportunities to sample new cuisines, architecture and cultural traditions — all brought here by the scores of immigrants drawn to the California lifestyle. Just spend an extra day here, and you'll discover why the appeal is so strong.

See a star or two — Just a few minutes north of downtown off U.S. 101 is Hollywood, the original heart of Tinseltown. Originally a sleepy suburb, Hollywood's scenic locale made it a natural for filming early silent movies. Big-name studios such as Paramount quickly followed, and Hollywood became the center of cinema's Golden Age. Stroll along the Walk of Fame on Hollywood Boulevard and find your favorite celebrity's star. Visit the Hollywood & Highland entertainment complex to glimpse the famous white billboard "Hollywood" sign through the archway, then shop for some vintage souvenirs. Hollywood Boulevard and Highland Avenue; 323-467-6412; www.hollywoodandhighland.com.

Catch a movie — Is there a better place than Hollywood to see the latest movie release? The most famous theater is Grauman's Chinese in Hollywood, where Clark Gable, Groucho Marx, Marilyn Monroe and more than 150 others have left their footprints in the cement since 1927. Tickets are about $10. Next door, six newer screens at Hollywood & Highland offer more choices. 6925 Hollywood Blvd.; 323-464-6266; mann.moviefone.com/services/graumanmain.adp.

Another option is El Capitan, also located in the heart of Hollywood, a nearly 80-year-old movie palace that Disney restored several years ago. The proscenium stage often features live entertainment before the film, which always is a current Disney release. 6838 Hollywood Blvd.; 323-467-7674; disney.go.com/disneypictures/el_capitan.

A third option is The Egyptian, which runs classic films and hosts festivals and other special events after being renovated as the home of American Cinematheque. One weekend a month, visitors can tour the 1922 structure — which features hieroglyphics, Egyptian-style paintings and sphinxes and is located just a few blocks from Grauman's and El Capitan — and see Forever Hollywood. 6712 Hollywood Blvd.; 323-466-3456; www.egyptiantheatre.com.

Get the best view — Visit the Santa Monica Pier — about 30 minutes west of downtown — to dip your toe in the Pacific surf or get a bird's-eye look at the coast from atop the Ferris wheel; you can enjoy other carnival games and rides too, such as the 1916 carousel, located at the end of Colorado Boulevard. 310-458-8900; www.santamonicapier.org.

Check out the Santa Monica Pier Aquarium — an aquarium and marine science learning center operated by the environmental group Heal the Bay. The Aquarium is open afternoons every day except Monday; the suggested donation is $5 for visitors over 12, with a minimum donation of $1. 1600 Ocean Front Walk; 310-393-6149; www.healthebay.org.

When you're hungry, there are numerous noshing options right on the pier: Sample some seafood amid a collection of vintage surfboards at Rusty's Surf Ranch (256 Santa Monica Pier; 310-393-7437; www.rustyssurfranch.com) or hang out at the Surf View Cafe, a casual diner with patio seating (330 Santa Monica Pier; 310-394-4231).

Explore a famously chic zip code — You've seen its immaculately clean streets and palm-framed mansions in countless movies and TV programs, but what is Beverly Hills really like? For one thing, it's small enough for a delightful afternoon of self-guided walking, shopping and celebrity-spotting.

Beverly Hills is northwest of downtown, wedged between West Hollywood and Century City, and possesses (but often hides) a very prosaic history of farming and ranching — famous Rodeo Drive was originally named for the yearly cattle roundup held when this was a vast Spanish rancho — before early screen legends like Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks "settled" this untamed countryside and helped launch modern Beverly Hills.

Stop by the city's picturesque civic center, a cluster of 1920s-era Spanish Renaissance masterpieces that include the still-active City Hall and a matching public library. The early planner's vision included plenty of parkland, and today's denizens jog, walk or relax in Beverly Gardens, a 14-block necklace of impeccably manicured greenbelt (including benches and outdoor art installations) along Santa Monica Boulevard. Beverly Hills is best known throughout the world as a center of chic designer shopping (see Where to Shop), but another appeal is the unique Museum of Television and Radio, located in a striking modern building on a prime Beverly Drive street corner. This branch of New York's MT&R is a virtual broadcast library, where highlights include Neil Armstrong's historic moon walk, the first-ever hour of MTV, and every I Love Lucy ever made (465 N. Beverly Dr.; 310-786-1000; www.mtr.org).

Beverly Hills Visitors Bureau: 239 S. Beverly Dr.; 800-345-2210; www.beverlyhillsbehere.com.

Take a scenic drive — Mulholland Drive — a two-lane road that snakes lazily along the foothill ridge dividing most of L.A. and the sprawling San Fernando Valley — has been immortalized in film and local legend. The Santa Monica mountains are home to everything from unspoiled backcountry to clusters of multimillion-dollar estates, with alternating city and valley views around every turn. Stretching from the top of the Cahuenga Pass westward to the ocean, Mulholland is a popular drive for "weekend warrior" motorcycle posses, sports-car aficionados, and families just getting to and fro.

In the Hollywood Hills, you can reach Mulholland from Cahuenga Boulevard (or the Cahuenga exit from U.S. 101) and Laurel Canyon; farther west, Sepulveda Boulevard and I-405 rise to meet the mountain ridge at the top of the Sepulveda Pass, a major route between the valley and city. To explore the rugged Malibu hillsides, take U.S. 101 west to Topanga or Malibu canyons, then head south into the hills.

Got the kids? Long before Jack Nicholson and Ben Affleck ruled the L.A. scene, the West Coast's dominant residents included Colombian mammoths, giant ground sloths and other extinct species. See them all at the George C. Page Museum at the La Brea Tar Pits in the Miracle Mile district, a culturally rich stretch of Wilshire Boulevard west of downtown that's home to several prominent museums and a growing number of nightspots. Feel what it was like to get stuck in the sticky black goo, touch bones and watch paleontologists work. The museum is open from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays, and from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekends. Admission is $7 for adults and $2 for kids 5-12. 5801 Wilshire Blvd.; 323-934-7243; www.tarpits.org.

For a mind-expanding educational experience that really feels like playing, visit the California Science Center, near downtown in Exposition Park (also home to the Natural History Museum, the Coliseum and USC). High-tech sleight of hand and interactive adventures teach kids about the world around them, and there's an attached IMAX theater with surround sound and 3-D. The Science Center is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Museum admission is free; IMAX ticket prices vary. 700 State Dr.; 213-SCI-ENCE; www.californiasciencecenter.org.

Save a day for Disneyland — The "Happiest Place on Earth" is in Anaheim, a 45-minute drive south of Los Angeles. The original Disneyland Park is as fun as ever, with perennial favorite rides such as Space Mountain, the Haunted Mansion, Pirates of the Caribbean, and Indiana Jones, along with beloved Disney characters and live-action shows.

In 2001, the theme park — and surrounding neighborhood — got a boost with the opening of adjacent sister park Disney's California Adventure, which presents the diversity of the Golden State as entertainment: You can take a virtual hang-gliding tour above statewide highlights in Soarin' Over California, take a white-knuckle plunge on Tower of Terror, or experience an authentic old-style boardwalk at Pacific Pier.

The Disney expansion also added Downtown Disney, an idealized street scene modeled after the one at Orlando's Magic Kingdom. Whether you want to stroll with the kids in tow, have an upscale dinner for two or party into the night, Downtown Disney offers restaurants, shops, and entertainment for all ages. Highlights include the House of Blues, Rainforest Cafe, ESPN Zone and the World of Disney superstore.

A one-day admission ticket to either park is $49.75 for adults, $39.75 for kids 3-9, and free for children under 3. Multiday Park Hopper tickets are also available. Hours vary by season, but the parks are generally open from 8 or 9 a.m. and close as late as midnight on busy weekends. 1313 Harbor Blvd.; 714-781-4565; www.disneyland.com.

Experience special effects — Universal Studios Hollywood, about 20 minutes north of downtown, started out with a behind-the-scenes Backlot Tour — still part of the fun here — to become L.A.'s most popular family attraction, including special effects displays, a rock 'n' roll Spiderman show, hilarious Shrek 4-D film, plus adventure rides inspired by movies like Back to the Future and Jurassic Park. Just outside the gate, Universal Citywalk throbs with the pulse of youthful shopping, dining, and live music clubs.

Admission is $49.75 for adults, $39.75 for kids 3-11, and free for children under 3. Universal often offers special promotions and discounts, which are available online, in many tourist publications or through your hotel concierge. Hours vary seasonally but the park is generally open from 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. 100 Universal City Plaza; 800-UNIVERSAL; www.universalstudioshollywood.com.

Love that art — The Los Angeles County Museum of Art, located on Museum Row in the Miracle Mile district west of downtown, has collections of Islamic art, Tokugawa period Japanese paintings and woodblock prints, American paintings and sculpture, and a costume and textile collection of more than 50,000 pieces. A new Latin American gallery covers more than 4,000 square feet. "Family Sundays," geared for families with kids 5-12, features hands-on art projects, storytelling and bilingual gallery tours. Special exhibit highlights include "Trajectories: The Photographic Work of Robbert Flick" (through Jan. 9, 2005), which focuses on the local photographer's career from the 1970s to the present. A 50th anniversary celebration of LACMA's pre-eminent costume and textile department: "Luxury Textiles East and West" continues through the summer of 2005. The museum is open from noon to 8 p.m. Monday, Tuesday and Thursday; from noon to 9 p.m. Friday; and from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Admission is $9 for adults, $5 for students and seniors, and free to kids under 17. 905 Wilshire Blvd.; 323-857-6000; www.lacma.org.

Another art option is the J. Paul Getty Museum at the Getty Center, an imposing travertine marble fortress on a hilltop near Westwood alongside I-405. This modern architectural masterpiece, opened in 1997, took 14 years to construct and, on a clear day, offers city-to-ocean vistas. Come for its impressive grounds, high-concept garden and highlights from the Getty's permanent collection — including the van Gogh masterpiece Irises. Visitors can also enjoy a look at the Getty's recently acquired Gothic and Renaissance stained glass panels, a new medium for the permanent collection. Current exhibits include a focused collection of Cezanne works exploring the intersection of still life and watercolor (through Jan. 5, 2005). The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday, and from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Admission is free; parking is $7 per car. 1200 Getty Center Dr.; 310-440-7300; www.getty.edu.

If you still haven't gotten your cultural fix, the Pacific Asia Museum is home to art from throughout the Pacific Rim. Upcoming events include an exhibit that presents wooden furniture from Tibet in both secular and religious contexts (through Nov. 13-Feb. 13, 2005). The museum, housed in a re-creation of a Northern Chinese palace in Pasadena — about 20 minutes northeast of downtown L.A. — is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday (open until 8 p.m. Friday). Admission is $7 for adults, $5 for students and seniors, and free for kids under 12; free every fourth Friday of the month. 46 N. Los Robles Ave.; 626-449-2742, ext. 10; www.pacificasiamuseum.org.

If you're willing to take a drive, 40 minutes northeast of Los Angeles in San Marino lies the Huntington Library, Art Collection and Botanical Gardens, which displays European art and historic documents from colonial America. Their rotating exhibits are always worth a visit, since the Huntington's extraordinary library is reserved for visiting scholars — except for specially selected theme displays. Open noon to 4:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 0:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Admission is $12.50 for adults, $10 for seniors, $8.50 for students 12 and older, $5 for kids 5-11, and free for kids under 5; also free to all the first Thursday of each month. 1151 Oxford Rd.; 626-405-2100; www.huntington.org.

Explore an ethnic neighborhood — Los Angeles has the largest Asian/Pacific Island population in the USA and boasts the largest Hispanic community outside Guadalajara and Mexico City.

Explore some of this diversity downtown in Little Tokyo, bordered by Alameda and Los Angeles streets and First and Third streets adjacent to downtown L.A.'s eastern edge. First, check out the Japanese American National Museum, which chronicles Japanese life in the USA in its architecturally acclaimed galleries. The surrounding blocks are rich with sushi and shabu-shabu restaurants, traditional Japanese candy stores and shops specializing in imported ceramics and other Asian goods. The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday (open until 8 p.m. Thursday). Admission is $8 for adults, $5 for seniors, $4 for students and kids 6-17, and free for kids under 6. Admission is free for everyone after 5 p.m. on Thursday, and free to all the third Thursday each month. 369 E. First St.; 213-625-0414; www.janm.org.

Chinatown, at the corner of Broadway and Cesar E. Chavez Boulevard (a continuation of Sunset Boulevard) directly north of downtown L.A., is undergoing a small revival as art galleries start to spring up near traditional restaurants. Visitors will find plenty of dim sum and chop suey eateries, Chinese bakeries and market, and kitschy import shops — all in a Hollywood-goes-to-Peking architectural style.

Just three blocks east of Chinatown is El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historic Monument, commonly referred to as Olvera Street. Located across from Union Station at Alameda Street and Cesar E. Chavez Avenue, the area was the Spanish cornerstone of the original Los Angeles settlement and is now a colorful shopping and dining district where you can find everything from huarache sandals and colorful serapes to traditional candies and zesty Mexican food. The visitors center is open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday. 622 N. Main St.; 213-628-1274; www.cityofla.org/elp.

Art and culture in Pasadena — Ten miles north of downtown lies Pasadena, which features a bounty of historic architecture. Fans of Arts and Crafts homes will want to tour the Gamble House, designed in 1908 by Charles and Henry Greene and now a National Landmark. Built for affluent Easterners, the home features handmade wood detailing and priceless stained glass, as well as distinctively California features such as sleeping porches. Guided tours are conducted Thursday through Sunday between noon and 3 p.m.; the cost is $8 for adults, $5 for students and seniors, and free to kids under 12. No advance reservations are accepted. 4 Westmoreland Place; 626-793-3334; www.gamblehouse.org.

You can also stroll by Pasadena's grandiose and baroque City Hall, located on Garfield Avenue, two blocks north of Colorado Boulevard. The centerpiece of a historic Civic Center that also includes the 1920s-era Library and Civic Auditorium, City Hall features a classic colonnaded courtyard, formal gardens and a spectacular tiled dome visible from miles away.

The Norton Simon Museum in Pasadena showcases European pieces dating from the Renaissance to the mid-20th century, including works by Raphael, Rubens, Rembrandt, Monet, Degas, Renoir, van Gogh, Cezanne and Picasso. It's open from noon to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Monday (open until 9 p.m. Friday). Admission is $6 for adults, $3 for seniors, and free for students and kids under 18. 411 W. Colorado Blvd.; 626-449-6840; www.nortonsimon.org.

For tours of these and other historic structures, contact the Pasadena Convention and Visitors Bureau. 171 S. Los Robles Ave.; 626-795-9311; www.pasadenacal.com/architecturaltours.htm.

See the Sunset Strip — This is the unofficial designation for a West Hollywood stretch of Sunset Boulevard 25 minutes northwest from downtown, between Doheny Drive at the west and where Laurel Canyon Boulevard becomes Crescent Heights Boulevard at the east. For decades, the Strip has been famous for celebrity-studded nightlife and high-profile hotels. Restaurants, sidewalk cafes and upscale boutiques abound here, including the flagship Tower Records, power-dining spot Le Dome, the faux-bayou House of Blues and Hustler Hollywood boutique. During the day, the Strip is populated with between-projects actors and visitors lounging and shopping. Nighttime is a frantic mix of celebs in limos, loud rock 'n' rollers, brown-nosing cruisers and plenty of paparazzi.

Stephanie Avnet Yates