On the other hand, business travelers who venture off the Strip will find that Las Vegas sports a freshness and vigor that is hard to match. With a population that has more than doubled over the past 10 years, local art and theater are just beginning to explode as locals finally have the numbers to support an increasingly vibrant arts scene.

The arts aren't the only industry to benefit from the seemingly unquenchable pent-up demand fueled by the 5,000 new residents who move here each month. Vegas has to have one of the most friendly business climates in the country. With no state income taxes, a strengthening university system with a high-tech infrastructure already in place, over the next decade Vegas may finally see some competition to its primary industry of gaming.

Make no mistake, however, that gaming will continue to be a core industry. Although tourists no longer list gambling as the primary reason for their visit, almost 90% are willing to risk an average of $500 each while here, pouring almost $8 billion into the local economy.

That moola, in turn, helps spur the burgeoning entertainment, dining and shopping scenes, and even more casino development. Recent expansions, like Mandalay Bay's THE Hotel (www.thehotelatmandalaybay.com) are increasingly sophisticated, sexy and aware that the casino floor should be an exciting addition instead of the main attraction.

A major remodeling and expansion of the Fashion Show Mall and the Forum Shops at Caesars entices both residents and tourists to shop and celebrity-watch in what is becoming the shopping mecca of America.

Several downtown loft projects, a spectacular market for multimillion dollar high-rise condos like Turnberry Place (turnberryplace.com) and the half-billion-dollar purchase of BLM land in Henderson, mean that an urban core may finally be on the horizon.

Despite the new advertising jingoes and the racy billboards, families can avert their eyes and enjoy the silliness; 20-somethings can dress themselves in their newly acquired adulthood to feel sophisticated and uninhibited at a variety of trendy bars; honeymooners can flit between romantic restaurants and isolated outdoor escapes; and those beyond those stages can indulge in the increasingly sophisticated culinary, art, shopping and show scenes.

And that may be the most invigorating part of all, not only watching, but helping a city grow up.

City of Lights — No visit to Vegas is complete without driving the Strip at night. Even the McDonalds has a fabulous golden arch that graces its entrance. From the classic neon of the Flamingo Hotel (www.flamingolasvegas.com) to state-of-the-art multimedia shows like the "cloud" streetside of Fashion Show Mall (www.thefashionshow.com), this 4.3-mile stretch between Russell Road and the Sahara Hotel is a sight worth beholding. Panoramic views are best seen from the top of the Paris (www.parislasvegas.com) or Stratosphere towers (www.stratlv.com).

It's showtime — Last December, Vegas bumped up ticket prices so that many shows cost well over $100 per ticket. Often in $100 million theaters, these spectacles are, indeed, spectacular. Nonetheless, free and low-cost shows still exist, like the campy free TI production Sirens of TI to the hilarious comedy magic of Mac King, currently a bargain at $16.95 (800-392-9002 ext. 5222; www.harrahs.com). Vegas "showgirls" are getting scarce on the Strip, but magic and human bodies doing impossible feats are everywhere from Ka, Cirque du Soleil's newest opening in December (www.ka.com) to its classic Mystere (702-894-7722; www.treasureisland.com) and the Bellagio's impressive O (702-693-7722; www.bellagio.com and New York New York's racy Zumanity (www.nynyhotelcasino.com/pages/ent_cirque.asp).

In the mood for a more traditional Vegas show, replete with sequins and feathers? The Tropicana's Folies Bergere is the city's longest-running extravaganza (702-739-2222; www.tropicanalv.com), while Bally's Jubilee! also offers tickets for a backstage tour given by a Bally's showgirl (702-967-4567; www.ballyslasvegas.com).

Old rockers never die — The success of Mamma Mia! on Broadway and elsewhere — including Vegas — was sure to engender a craze of production shows based on rock and roll heavyweights. The Beatles will team with Cirque du Soleil in 2006 to fill Siegfried and Roy's stage, but in the meantime you can enjoy Queen in the offbeat fairy tale, We Will Rock You. Set in a dark and technocratic future where singing is outlawed, a band of wild rebels tries to keep the beat alive. Full of silliness, Vegas tongue-in-cheek humor and loud, crowd-pleasing guitar music, the feisty production is carried by leads that sing like angels. Tickets start at $80.50. Shows Mon. and Fri. at 9 p.m.; Tues. and Wed. at 7 p.m.; Sat. at 7 and 10:30 p.m.; Sun. at 5 p.m. and 9 p.m. Le Théâtre Des Arts at the Paris Las Vegas: 3655 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; www.playcaesars.com/paris/lasvegas/splash/wwry.

Viva Las Vegas A visit to Las Vegas and a visit to Memphis have this in common: You must pay homage to the King. Elvis Presley first played Vegas (not so successfully) in 1956. But his sparkly jumpsuit era, launched in 1969 at the International (now the Las Vegas Hilton, next to the Convention Center), is what irrevocably intertwined the King with his kingdom. Elvis fans predictably love Elvis-A-Rama's $5 million exhibit of King cars, King jumpsuits, and King records, but even the casual listener will enjoy examining esoteric memorabilia like personal receipts, letters and the like. And, what would an Elvis museum be without an Elvis impersonator to shake and swivel through a few hits? Elvis-A-Rama has that too. Uh-huh. Located on Industrial, across the freeway from the Strip. Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. Admission is $14.95, under 12 free with adult. 3401 S. Industrial Rd.; 702-309-7200; www.elvisarama.com.

Beam up — Trekkies have always flocked to the Las Vegas Hilton's theme park-like attraction, Star Trek: The Experience. But thanks to its Disney-quality detail, even those barely aware of the franchise's existence will enjoy this all-ages attraction just east of the Strip in the convention corridor. Part ride, part you-are-there theater, The Experience utilizes a motion simulator, movie-like sets and live actors to immerse guests in Gene Roddenberry's 24th century. In spring 2004, The Experience added Borg Invasion 4D to complement the long-running Klingon Encounter. Enjoy both with general admission, and then browse the unusual gift store or grab a meal in the Trek-themed Quark's Restaurant & Bar. Star Trek: The Experience is open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. General admission is $34.99, under 12 and seniors $31.99. 3000 Paradise Rd.; 888-462-6535; www.startrekexp.com.

Shark city — Animal attractions are an odd part of the Las Vegas experience, with numerous casino habitats housing everything from lions to tigers to dolphins. Even a multimillion-dollar panda exhibit is in the works, if the Mandalay Bay resort can win the approval of environmental groups. In the meantime, the same resort offers an aquarium that any seaside would envy. Accredited by the American Zoo and Aquarium Association, the 2-million gallon Shark Reef is the only place in the U.S. to see a hammerhead shark in captivity. Nearly 100 species of undersea life (including sharks) thrive in the exhibit, and an enveloping walk-through tunnel makes the viewing experience impressive as well as educational. Open daily at 10 a.m., with last entrance at 10 p.m. Admission is $15.95 for adults and $9.95 for children 5-12. 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-632-4555; www.mandalaybay.com.

High art — Located near the Venetian resort's front valet entrance, the unexpectedly intimate Rem Koolhaas-designed Guggenheim-Hermitage museum generally sticks with classics from the likes of Claude Monet, Vincent van Gogh and Pablo Picasso. Open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Admission is $15 for adults, $12 for seniors and Nevada residents, $11 for students, and $7 for children 6-12. 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-414-2440; www.guggenheimlasvegas.org.

Culture crawl — For an arts experience more in tune with the local scene, check out the grassroots success of First Friday, happening on the first Friday of each month throughout the year. An organized downtown arts district open house, First Friday is centered on the Funk House, an antique store and gallery space, and the Arts Factory, a two-story warehouse of galleries, studios and performance spaces. The popular evening spreads out in all directions (via a free shuttle bus), with area restaurants and retail stores open later hours to accommodate First Friday patrons. The free event runs from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Charleston Boulevard at Main Street; 702-678-6278; www.firstfriday-lasvegas.org.

Old-school Vegas — Craving the glitz and neon-bathed intimacy depicted in the 1960 version of Ocean's Eleven? Make a beeline downtown to the Fremont Street Experience. While much of the famous Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard south from Sahara Avenue) has remade itself in a modern manner, downtown's Glitter Gulch (Fremont Street from Las Vegas Boulevard to Main Street) has retained the flavor of "Vegas, baby!" Here, classic casino hotels like the classy Golden Nugget (recently re-energized by new owners, two 30-something dotcom entrepreneurs) and the Horseshoe (low ceilings, velvet wallpaper, crystal chandeliers) envelop gamblers with an atmosphere akin to Old West elegance. Yearning for a break from the gaming tables? The Neonopolis entertainment complex offers gamble-free shopping, dining, a cinema and more. Check out the Saloon for cocktails or Jillian's for a bar, arcade and bowling alley. 425 Fremont St.; 702-678-5777; www.vegasexperience.com.

Child's play — Most of the city's overt experiments with catering to families failed, but one that survived is the Circus-Circus Adventuredome — a five-acre, fully enclosed, climate-controlled theme park. With dozens of rides and attractions far more fun than frazzling, the Adventuredome is a fave of visiting families. Major attractions include the Canyon Blaster looping roller coaster, the Rim Runner water flume, an IMAX motion simulator, and the new Sling Shot. Small, carnival-like attractions and rides vie for attention amid the big draws. Rides cost $3-$5 each, but the best value is a day pass, which costs $21.95 for most, and $13.95 for those 33-48 inches tall. Open daily at 10 a.m.; closing time varies by season. 2880 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-794-3939; www.adventuredome.com.