Though Mexico City does present challenges for visitors, its rewards make a visit well worth the effort. Those who do dive into the fray often become addicted to the city's energy and attractions.

Mexico City is an exciting combination of Aztec, Spanish colonial and modern art and architecture. It's also a huge, sprawling city, so try to focus on one area at a time. Start at the Plaza de la Constitucion, or Zocalo, the city's main square. The Presidential Palace, with its famous Diego Rivera murals, and the Metropolitan Cathedral flank two sides of it. The surrounding Centro Historico (Historic Center), a 500-block virtual museum of colonial architecture, was built on ruins of the Aztec capital, Tenochtitlan.

The Templo Mayor, one block from the Zocalo, is the most important relic of that period. Artifacts unearthed at the site are displayed in the adjacent Museo del Templo Mayor. Alameda Central is a downtown oasis of greenery, fountains and statuary.

Explore Aztec civilization — If you have time to see only one museum in Mexico City, Museo Nacional de Antropologia, this world-renowned anthropology museum, is the one to choose. The exhibits include the Aztec calendar stone, giant stone Olmec heads from the jungles of Tabasco, treasures recovered from a sacred Maya well, a replica of a Maya ruler's tomb from Palenque and ethnological displays of rural Mexican life as it is still lived today. Daily 10 a.m.-7 p.m. M$35, Sunday free. In Chapultepec Park at the corner of Reforma and Gandhi (Chapultepec Metro station); 52-55-5553-6266.

The National History Museum, Museo Nacional de Historia, is housed in Chapultepec Castle. It's filled with hundreds of paintings, murals, ceramics, furniture and carriages depicting the history of Mexico from the Aztecs to today, with an emphasis on the colonial era and military history. We recommend prearranging a guided tour of the castle: The rooms and exhibits are more interesting when viewed with some historical explanation. Tuesday-Sunday 9 a.m.-5 p.m. M$35, free on Sunday. In Chapultepec Park on the corner of Ghandi, with an entrance on Paseo de la Reforma; 52-55-5286-0700.

For those who dig history, the Museo de Templo Mayor houses walls of temples and giant sculptures of eagle knights, the goddess of the moon and the god of war, along with thousands of other artifactst found In 1978 by workmen laying a telephone cable discovered the ruins of the ancient Aztec capital. The excavation can be viewed from the street level and can be walked through with the purchase of a museum ticket. English-speaking guides are available at no charge when given a week's notice (call to make arrangements). Tuesday-Sunday 9 a.m.-5 p.m. M$35, free on Sunday. Seminario 8 (Zocalo Metro station) Centro Historico; 52-55-5542-4943.

Monumental attractions — Catedral Metropolitana is the largest cathedral in Latin America, begun in 1567 and constructed over 250 years. Built in a fanciful baroque style known as churrigueresque, it's filled with exquisite details and has many small, lavishly embellished chapels. It also boasts one of the largest organs in the world — concerts are given on special occasions. Restoration work is continually under way inside. The cathedral is sinking into the swampy soil beneath it and lists to one side, which is clearly visible from the outside. Daily 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Free. North side of the Zocalo, Centro Historico; 52-55-5522-3033.

Basilica de la Virgen de Guadalupe is one of the holiest places in the country. The shrine to Mexico's patron saint is built on the site where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to a peasant in 1531. Her image was miraculously imprinted on his homespun cloak, which hangs behind the altar of the church. The original church was built in 1709. When it began to sink into the swampy subsoil, a new basilica was constructed in the same plaza and was consecrated in 1976. Visitors are welcome to visit the church at any time of the day. Free. Plaza Hidalgo 1 (near the La Villa Metro station), Col. Villa de Guadelupe; 52-55-5577-6022; www.virgendeguadalupe.org.mx.

Museo de Franz Mayer is a 16th-century hospital beautifully restored to contain an extraordinary collection of religious art in gold and silver, as well as rare books and European antiques, which belonged to German collector Franz Mayer. Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. (Wednesday until 7 p.m.). M$20 (convert currency), free on Tuesday. Ave. Hidalgo 45 (behind Alameda Central near the Bellas Artes Metro station), Col. Guerrero; 52-55-5518-2270. www.franzmayer.org.mx .

Take a regal tour — The National Palace, Palacio Nacional, commissioned by Hernan Cortez, contains the federal treasury and the national archives. Until recently, it also housed the offices of the Mexican president. The main reason to go inside is to see some of Diego Rivera's best-known murals, colorful depictions of Mexico City's long history from before the Spanish conquest to the 20th century. To do so, go to the main portal and show some form of picture ID to the guards. Daily 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Free. Avenida Pino Suarez (facing the Zocalo), Centro Historico.

Bird's-eye view — Torre Latinoamericana, an Empire State Building look-alike, is an encroachment of the modern world on the Historic Center, but it's still worth visiting. It's 43 stories high with a restaurant and observation deck on top, affording a good view of the city on a clear day. Daily 8 a.m.-11 p.m. M$40 adults. Lazaro Cardenas 2 (at Madero, Bellas Artes Metro station), Centro Historico.

Natural serenity — Chapultepec Park is a huge expanse of wooded areas, lakes with paddleboats, hiking trails, playgrounds, botanical gardens, amusement parks, a zoo and excellent museums. There are often toy-and-balloon vendors, dancers in ancient costumes and voladores (men "flying" in circles on ropes attached to the top of a tall pole). The park, Bosque de Chapultepec, is divided into three sections: the first covers ground from the eastern edge of the park to Boulevard Mateos, the second extends west from there, followed by the third section. The park is bounded by Avenida Paseo de Reforma and Avenida Constituyents. Daily 5 a.m.-5 p.m. Free. Main entrances are across from metro stops Chapultepec and Auditorio.

Park yourself among the art — A reason to visit Museo Nacional de Arte is to explore the ornate buildings, constructed at the turn of the 20th century in the style of an Italian Renaissance palace, temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent, exhaustive collection of Mexican art. Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. M$15, free on Sunday. Tacuba 8 (Allende Metro station), Centro Historico; 52-55-5130-3403 or 52-55-5512-0614.

A lovely green oasis in the heart of the city, Alameda Central's focal point is the marble monument honoring 19th-century president Benito Juarez. The gracious Palace of Fine Arts, Palacio de Bellas Artes, is a must-see whether you're attending a performance, seeing an art exhibition or simply taking in the spectacular architecture. The neoclassical building (with pre-Hispanic reliefs) was designed by renowned Italian architect Adamo Boari at the beginning of the 20th century. The interior is decorated with murals by Rivera, Tamayo, Siqueiros and Orozco, and the concert hall has a dazzling Tiffany beaded glass stage curtain depicting the Valley of Mexico. Open to visitors Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. M$30 adults. Free on Sunday Avenida Hidalgo 1 (at the eastern end of Alameda Central, Metro Bellas Artes), Centro Historico; 52-55-5512-2593.

Housed in a former convent, Museo Jose Luis Cuevas has a permanent exhibition of watercolors by iconoclastic painter and writer Jose Luis Cuevas as well as temporary exhibitions of contemporary art from Spain and Latin America. Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-6 p.m. M$10, free on Sunday. Academia 13, Centro Historico; 52-55-5542-8959.

Permanent exhibitions of Mexican contemporary art by Rivera, Siqueiros, O'Gorman and Cuevas, to name a few, can be found at Museo de Arte Moderno. This modern-art museum — a pleasant sculpture garden surrounds the museum — also hosts temporary exhibits from around the world. Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. M$15 adults, free on Sunday. Chapultepec Park, at the corner of Reforma and Gandhi (Chapultepec Metro station); 52-55-5211-8331.

Frida and Diego — Museo Frida Kahlo is the artist's home in the years 1929-1954, where she lived at times with her husband, Diego Rivera. On display are some of Kahlo's paintings, her native costumes, Mexican folk art and works by other well-known artists, including Marcel Duchamp, Paul Klee and Jose Clemente Orozco. Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-6 p.m. M$30. Londres 247, Coyoacan; 52-55-5554-5999.

Diego Rivera masterpieces include the Museo Anahuacalli, made entirely of volcanic rock and was designed by Rivera himself. It's in the shape of a pyramid, a tribute to Maya and Aztec cultures. It is a permanent display of Diego Rivera's huge collection of pre-Hispanic pieces. Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-6 p.m. M$30 adults. Calle del Museo 150, Coyoacan; 52-55-5617-4310.

Pop culture — Museo Nacional de las Culturas Populares gives you a deeper understanding of Mexican popular culture, with temporary exhibits about subjects like the circus, wrestling and traditional nativity scenes. It is an excellent place to see native handicrafts from different areas of Mexico. Tuesday-Thursday 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Friday-Sunday 10 a.m.-8 p.m.. Free. Ave. Hidalgo 289, Coyoacan; 52-55-5554-8968.

Cruising to Xochimilco — These famed floating gardens were created by the Xochimilco Indians. Within a network of canals, they constructed little islands on which fruits, vegetables and flowers were grown. Today, you can rent small, flat-bottomed barges (called trajineras, they're similar to gondolas) and drift along the canals for a delightful experience. Recommended: Book this or other tours to Xochimilco with a travel agent or tour company. If you're driving, take the Viaducto Tlalpan to the south and follow the signs to Xochimilco. A boat for 12 people costs M$110 per hour, M$130 for 18 people. The rate is per boat regardless of how many people are actually on it, and there are no smaller boats. These are officially sanctioned prices. Don't let operators charge you more.

Xochimilco is also home to the Dolores Olmedo Patino Museum, which is housed in a renovated 16th-century hacienda and contains some of the best-known works of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, as well as pre-Hispanic artifacts. Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-6 p.m. M$25 adults, free on Tuesday. Ave. Mexico 5843, Col. La Noria (in the far south of the city, about 12 miles from the Zocalo), Xochimilco; 52-55-5555-0891.

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